01 · The pasta
Eleven Shapes, Made Before We Open
Everything below is made at the bench the same morning it is sold. The counter holds up to 2 kg of any filled shape; for more than that, see ordering.
The Full List
All eleven shapes shown.
| No. | Shape | Dough | Filling | € per kg | Boil, min | Made |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Tagliatelle | Egg | none | 13.00 | 2 | Tue to Sat |
| 02 | Tagliolini | Egg | none | 13.00 | 1½ | Tue to Sat |
| 03 | Pappardelle | Egg | none | 13.00 | 3 | Tue to Sat |
| 04 | Fuži | Egg | none | 14.00 | 4 | Tue, Thu, Sat |
| 05 | Semolina strands | Semolina | none | 12.00 | 5 | Tue to Sat |
| 06 | Blecs | Buckwheat | none | 15.00 | 3 | Wed, Fri |
| 07 | Ravioli di magro | Egg | Ricotta, chard | 26.00 | 4 | Tue to Sat |
| 08 | Tortelli di zucca | Egg | Pumpkin, grana | 28.00 | 4 | Tue to Sat, Oct to Feb |
| 09 | Cjarsons | Soft wheat | Potato, smoked ricotta | 38.00 | 5 | Thu to Sat |
| 10 | Lasagne sheets | Egg | none | 12.00 | 1 | Tue to Sat |
| 11 | Krafi | Egg | Sweet cheese, raisin | 34.00 | 4 | Sat, Dec to Easter |
Five shapes, with their sizes
Filled Shapes, Drawn to Size
-
Ravioli di Magro
About 80 to the kilo
-
Tortelli di Zucca
About 65 to the kilo
-
Cjarsons
About 35 to the kilo
-
Krafi
About 60 to the kilo
-
Blecs
About 45 mm a side
Shape Notes
Tagliatelle and Their Family
One egg dough rolled to 0.8 mm and cut three ways: 2 mm tagliolini for broth and butter, 7 mm tagliatelle for ragù, 20 mm pappardelle for game and mushrooms. Shake off the flour before they go in.
Fuži
The Istrian quill: a 40 mm square of egg dough rolled round a stick from one corner. The tube holds a slow sauce inside it. Chicken cooked down for an afternoon is the old way.
Semolina Strands
Re-milled durum and water, rolled between the palms into strands about 3 mm thick and uneven on purpose. They take five minutes and stay firm. Good with tomato, or anchovy and breadcrumbs.
Blecs
Buckwheat and 00 flour cut into rough triangles, a Friulian mountain shape. Butter and sage, or a stew left on the stove. The only thing we cut that will not lie flat in the tray.
Ravioli di Magro
Ricotta and chard with nutmeg and grana. The first batch is on the counter at 08:00, the second at 11:00.
Tortelli di Zucca
From October to February. We roast the pumpkin the evening before, so they are on the counter from 09:00.
Lasagne Sheets
Egg dough cut to the size of a home oven dish. Boil them a minute, or lay them straight into the dish raw; fresh sheets cook in the sauce.
Thursday to Saturday, from 10:00
Cjarsons
Cjarsons come from Carnia, the mountains north of Udine, and every valley up there says its own are the real ones. Ours are from my grandmother’s village. I have changed one thing since 2012, and I will not say which.
The filling is potato, boiled in its skin and pushed through a sieve while it is hot, then raisins soaked overnight, a little dark cocoa, cinnamon, lemon zest, smoked ricotta, parsley and mint, and a spoon of the sugar most people leave out. It is sweet and savoury at the same time, which is the point, and it is why people either order them every week or never again.
The filling is made on Wednesday afternoon and rests overnight in the cold room. Fresh, it is loose and every part tastes separate. By morning the potato has taken up the rest and it holds a shape on the spoon, so it sits in the dough without pushing at the edge.
The edge is pinched, not cut. Each one is folded into a half moon and closed with fourteen to seventeen small pleats between thumb and finger. A pleated edge cooks at the same speed as the middle; a pressed edge stays hard. It is slow. A good morning is three kilos an hour between two of us, which is why we make them Thursday to Saturday and not every day.
To serve them, boil five minutes in salted water that is only just moving. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, never a colander. Pour over butter cooked until it smells of hazelnuts, grate smoked ricotta on top, and finish with a dust of sugar and cinnamon. That is how my grandmother served them, and it is the only way I will tell you.
Nives
Keeping and Cooking
- In the fridge, 3 days.Leave it in its paper. In a sealed box it sweats and sticks.
- In the freezer, 2 months.Filled shapes only. Lay them on a tray in one layer, freeze, then bag them.
- From frozen, add 2 minutes.Never thaw filled pasta first; the dough softens and splits.
Why we wrap in paper and not plastic is on the shop page.
Through the Year
Tortelli di zucca run from October to February. Krafi, the sweet Istrian filled pasta with cheese, raisins and lemon, are made on Saturdays from December to Easter. In April and May there are wild herb ravioli when the foraged herbs come in, and none when they do not.